‘Every Chef Should Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.
Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.
An Surprise Honour
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.
“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.
A Namesake Creation: Tantuni
However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Outranking the Titans
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
The Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
A Story of Hard Work
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
An Achievement for the Community
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.